Thursday, November 1, 2012

The rhythm of Europe



As our European Adventure comes to an end, we have again enjoyed feeling the pulse of Europe.   It is slower than our native homeland.  In the countries we have visited on this trip, people seem to live at a more leisurely pace.  They take more time to eat, to relax, to converse and to get to where they are going.   Based on our observations, it appears that many Europeans continue to visit the historical venues where they live, even though they have probably been to these castles, museums, chateaux and parks many times before.  I guess we would too if we lived here.  It seems that you find something new to admire each time you approach these amazing buildings and statues from a different direction, or at a different time of the day.  The warm hues of the buildings look very different when viewed at twilight or early in the crisp morning air after that first cappuccino. 

It has been a pleasure sharing part of this trip with our dear friend, Diane.  We have precious memories of our trip with her to Switzerland and Austria several years ago.  Now the three musketeers have added France and Germany to our travels together.  

It is always a joy to meet other travelers and talk with locals during our journeys.  Here are some of the interesting and fun people we have met over the past two months.

A young Amsterdamer who helped us resolve our camera downloading issue.  Without his help there would be no pictures!

Arne, the young student studying topography (whose father is Norwegian and whose mother is German) with whom we shared a train ride on our way to Heidelberg, Germany.  Such a talented and gracious young man. . . who studied for a semester in Norway and speaks fluent Norwegian, German and English.  We asked him to consider developing some maps of European cities with streets printed in very large print for Baby Boomers since we need all the help we can get when traveling.  

The young German student at a McDonalds near Heilbronn that provided us with directions to the freeway when we were lost.  Although his parents were unable to speak English, and we were unable to speak German, you could see the pride beaming from his parents when he was able to translate and help those “lost Americans.” 

The young German couple on the train to Baden Baden who were discussing the prospect of some day owning “property by the water . . . with the possibility of having a few animals there.”

The talented organ player who plays the carillon bells every Wednesday from the bell tower at the Westerkerk church in Amsterdam (located next door to the Anne Frank house) and who played an American medley in honor of his American guests.   A trumpet player sitting in a boat in the canal below would exchange musical phrases with the carillon player.  After the performance, the trumpet player would extend a fishing pole with a donation cup to the bystanders along the canal.  (We doubt that the carillon player “who played gratis for the church” received any of this booty.)

The gentleman and his wife from Columbia, Missouri (whose son used to live in Hartford, Wisconsin) whose rule was “after you arrive at the train station, you have to walk. . .no cabs unless it’s raining.”   We are kindred spirits with these two boomers and follow the same rule.

The waiter in Brussels with the handlebar mustache who gave Trudy a look as sad as the clown Emmett Kelly when she ordered a Caesar Salad with no chicken, and with a look of shock exclaimed, “No chicken?!”  However, he beamed a big smile when she said to add the chicken.  (Although he was kind of grumpy when we ordered our drinks, Trudy said she was going to get a smile out of him before we left the café. . . and she did.)

Benny, our charming host at the bed and breakfast in Bruges, who invited us into his own dining room for breakfast on Saturday and Sunday, and whose infectious humor and good nature are highlights from our visit to this quaint, charming city in Belgium.  

The two German gentlemen in Baden Baden who tried so desperately to redirect us from the orthopedic clinic “ zoom, zoom, zoom” down the hill to our hotel.

The kind lady in Baden Baden who immediately came over and told us we needed to “re-ascend on the elevator,” after seeing three confused musketeers step out of the parking garage elevator with their luggage into the basement fruit market.

The little beggar man in the wheelchair at the Strasbourg train station, to whom Diane and Tom gave change and two croissants; and when we passed him later, he patted the pocket with the croissants then patted his heart and pointed to us. 

Franchesca (the just-too-sweet and too-cute desk assistant in our hotel in Lugano, Switzerland), who waved goodbye to us when we left and said, “Oka-ya, we see-ah  you-ah the next-ah time-ah you-ah come-ah to Lugano, yes?” 

All of those considerate people in the Netherlands, Germany, France, Switzerland and Germany who excuse themselves at the ring of their cell phones and exit the restaurant to speak.

The Italians who don’t leave when their cell phone rings, but who are so full of life that you have to excuse them.  They are kind in a “not so quiet” but “big hearted” way.  For them, it’s about good food, good wine, good company, big hugs and living every day to the fullest. 

The Italian waiter in Florence who talked Tom into a large gelato sundae with chocolate syrup, amaretto cherries and whipped cream after Tom had just finished a plate of ravioli, then said to Tom when he dropped off the check, “You feela mucha betta now, eh?”

The always warm and friendly people in Dublin, Ireland who never let our cups run dry in the hotel pub, and who were okay with a tip “every now and then . . . not all the time.”

As our adventure comes to an end, along with a lot of good times, and having met a lot of fun and interesting people, we also reflect on the more serious side of our visits to the Anne Frank house and Ten Boom.  When walking into these homes, it is like walking back in time, and one must wonder--would I have been brave enough to hide a Jewish family, knowing that the penalty for hiding them was almost certain death.  Or, as a Jew in hiding, would I have been strong enough to endure the confines, the smells, the bad food, reading the same books over and over, and never feeling the sunshine on my face.   Or, as a friend of a Jew, would I have been brave enough to throw packets of food over the fence to my starving former school mate?

We have visited some of the most beautiful chateaux and castles ever built.   Again, you must consider if you were a king, a queen or a lord, would you have been kind to your subjects, or would you have dedicated yourself to accumulating wealth and power?  As Tom reflects on this, he notes that for 38 years he was lord of the numbers at Northwestern Mutual five days a week, but on weekends, he was very similar to a serf with a “honey-do list.”  However, even on weekends life was good, since unlike the serfs during the medieval era, he had access to Makita and DeWalt power tools.  

There is a slower pace to the steps you take in the heart of Europe.  Sure, you can speed up if you feel you need to see everything; but if you can, sit on a bench on the green, watch the young lovers and listen to the bells ring out from the churches and city bell towers.  Ride the trains and allow some room for dogs to sleep near your feet.  Don’t be surprised if your hotel room is rather tight. . . just roll with it, since you will most likely not spend much time there.   Walk in the rain and share an umbrella with someone you love.  Have a gelato every afternoon like the locals before you sit down for an 8:00 dinner.  Enjoy a glass or two of wine every day from your host country and appreciate how many kind and friendly people there are in the world. This is to feel the rhythm and soul of Europe. 

We hope you have enjoyed our recollections of the high points of our trip.  It now becomes necessary to return to Milwaukee and take care of obligations, so we will be returning the first weekend of November and we look forward to seeing our friends and relatives.  Europe will always have a place in our hearts, but it lives right there alongside the friendships we have cultivated over the years and deeply cherish.  See you soon!

Signing off at the end of the trail,
TNT

Florence and the beauty of Tuscany

We departed Lugano for Florence, Italy on Friday, October 26.  Note:  If a person blocks the door to your train car and grabs your bag, and they are wearing grey sweatpants and a hoodie, they are not on the railway payroll.  These little helpers are looking for a handout after they help you with your luggage.  However,  they are not unpleasant if you do not give them anything.   Also, if a young girl finds a gold wedding band right in front of you, says "oh look, it's real gold . . . "you keep it for good luck" --- get ready --- because in about 5 seconds she is going to turn back around and ask you for a handout.   Again, they are not unpleasant if you don't give them anything, but just something to think about when you are in areas filled with tourists.

 
We arrived in Florence around noon, left our bags at the hotel and headed out to find lunch. We navigated through the souvenir gauntlet along the River Arno, then turned left and navigated through the jewelry gauntlet on the Ponte Vecchio.   Finding a nice little cafe north of the Ponte Vecchio, we ate a wonderful lunch and enjoyed a cappuccino as a finish to a fine meal.   The temperature was in the upper 60's so we just enjoyed a leisurely walk around the various piazzas and wandered into the Basilica of St. Mary of the Flower.  This Duomo was started in 1296 and completed in 1436.  The basilica is a cathedral since it is the home base of an Archbishop.  The exterior is just as beautiful as the interior, with colors of greens and pale pinks.  

 
Saturday it rained nearly all day.  However, it was a warm fall day and the rain did not deter the tourists or the shoppers.  The piazzas were a sea of umbrellas, so everywhere you stepped you needed to negotiate your umbrella into the mix.   Throughout the day, Trudy's recently coiffed hair transformed from the Jane Fonda look to the 1980's Tina Turner rock helmet and finally to the Peter Fonda "Easy Rider" coiffe.   Since there were no mirrors in the piazzas, she enjoyed the day uninhibited.

Sunday was rainy and only in the 50's.  However, we had pre-purchased our tickets for the Uffizzi museum.  Therefore, we were able to spend a really enjoyable day viewing the sculptures and paintings of the masters.   Pictures were not allowed, so nothing to share.

On Monday we went to the train station to pre-purchase our tickets to Zurich.  Returning to the hotel we accidentally stumbled across the Laurentian Library which was designed by Michaelangelo and which contains over 11,ooo volumes of ancient script owned by the Medici family.  This was a pleasant surprise and the exhibits were very informative.  
 
Here are just a few more pictures of a beautiful city where you will see incredible works of art around every corner.


 
As of Tuesday, we are off to Dublin for our last stop before returning home.  Wherever that is!
 
Happy trails,
TNT

Skunked by Pepe Le Pew in Paris!


After saying au revoir to Diane, I addressed the overdue need for a haircut.   Unfortunately, I had waited until we were in Paris...just blocks off the Champs-Élysées--the most expensive avenue!  But putting my concern aside, I walked into a salon by our hotel and bravely placed myself in the hands of a French madman, a/k/a Pepe.  He asked "Do you want a trim or something a little French? Having a love for adventure, I chose "something a little French."   How was I to know that he was deranged!  You wouldn't think that someone could rotate two brushes faster than the eye can see, but he could.  He windmilled my hair, removing every bit of curl, until I looked like Tina Turner in the 1980's.  Then he swept everything forward until I looked like Jane Fonda in 1970.  Tom said, "Gee. . .you look so. . .so. . .French !" Tom went to the same stylist later that day but just asked for a trim.   (No sense of adventure!)  Sorry, in order to prevent future possible profiling concerns, we are not posting these pictures!

We decided to return to Baden Baden for a few days of slow time and to recover from our experience with Pepe.  We love this charming resort town just in the fringes of the Black Forest in Germany. The weather was beautiful and we had many peaceful canal walks and outside cafe meals.  The thermal baths are a huge draw for this area, but Tom isn't ready for that European experience yet (that is... he is not ready for communal bathing "no mas pantelones.")

Then it was on to Switzerland, our first stop would be Bern.  This is a pretty city with beautiful architecture, whimsical fountains lining main streets, a south view of the Alps, rolling hills in every direction and the brown bear park which is probably the city's biggest attraction.  As we approached the park, the cages opened and the bears each sprinted to their favorite spot on the hill where they immediately laid down and didn't move for the next hour! 
 
The natural beauty of Switzerland is hard to beat and we really enjoyed our time here.  One of our best memories was our walk through the fall leaves on the path leading high above Bern to the Rose Garden.  





As we headed south, our next stop was Lugano, Switzerland.  This is a stunning area, tucked in a bay on Lake Lugano in the Ticino region of Switzerland.  Because of its proximity to Italy, the main language spoken here is Italian. The Mediterranean flair is everywhere, from the tree-lined promenade walk along the lake to the very upscale shopping in the huge pedestrian area.  The gardens and parks are impeccably maintained and you can see the sense of pride locals have here.  We took a lake cruise, enjoying the incredible views of the mountains on a sunny day. The weather was gorgeous for walking this beautiful city and it was very hard to leave this comfortable location.  Here is a look at this lovely city.
 


 This next picture is of Switzerland's most famous Renaissance fresco.  It covers the whole wall of the nave in the Madonna degli Angioli church which was originally part of a Franciscan monastery.  Quite impressive!
 And we are back on the train to Florence, Italy!

Happy trails,
TNT