The rhythm of Europe

As our European Adventure comes to an end, we have again enjoyed feeling the pulse of Europe.   It is slower than our native homeland.  In the countries we have visited on this trip, people seem to live at a more leisurely pace.  They take more time to eat, to relax, to converse and to get to where they are going.   Based on our observations, it appears that many Europeans continue to visit the historical venues where they live, even though they have probably been to these castles, museums, chateaux and parks many times before.  I guess we would too if we lived here.  It seems that you find something new to admire each time you approach these amazing buildings and statues from a different direction, or at a different time of the day.  The warm hues of the buildings look very different when viewed at twilight or early in the crisp morning air after that first cappuccino. 

It has been a pleasure sharing part of this trip with our dear friend, Diane.  We have precious memories of our trip with her to Switzerland and Austria several years ago.  Now the three musketeers have added France and Germany to our travels together.  

It is always a joy to meet other travelers and talk with locals during our journeys.  Here are some of the interesting and fun people we have met over the past two months.

A young Amsterdamer who helped us resolve our camera downloading issue.  Without his help there would be no pictures!

Arne, the young student studying topography (whose father is Norwegian and whose mother is German) with whom we shared a train ride on our way to Heidelberg, Germany.  Such a talented and gracious young man. . . who studied for a semester in Norway and speaks fluent Norwegian, German and English.  We asked him to consider developing some maps of European cities with streets printed in very large print for Baby Boomers since we need all the help we can get when traveling.  

The young German student at a McDonalds near Heilbronn that provided us with directions to the freeway when we were lost.  Although his parents were unable to speak English, and we were unable to speak German, you could see the pride beaming from his parents when he was able to translate and help those “lost Americans.” 

The young German couple on the train to Baden Baden who were discussing the prospect of some day owning “property by the water . . . with the possibility of having a few animals there.”

The talented organ player who plays the carillon bells every Wednesday from the bell tower at the Westerkerk church in Amsterdam (located next door to the Anne Frank house) and who played an American medley in honor of his American guests.   A trumpet player sitting in a boat in the canal below would exchange musical phrases with the carillon player.  After the performance, the trumpet player would extend a fishing pole with a donation cup to the bystanders along the canal.  (We doubt that the carillon player “who played gratis for the church” received any of this booty.)

The gentleman and his wife from Columbia, Missouri (whose son used to live in Hartford, Wisconsin) whose rule was “after you arrive at the train station, you have to walk. . .no cabs unless it’s raining.”   We are kindred spirits with these two boomers and follow the same rule.

The waiter in Brussels with the handlebar mustache who gave Trudy a look as sad as the clown Emmett Kelly when she ordered a Caesar Salad with no chicken, and with a look of shock exclaimed, “No chicken?!”  However, he beamed a big smile when she said to add the chicken.  (Although he was kind of grumpy when we ordered our drinks, Trudy said she was going to get a smile out of him before we left the café. . . and she did.)

Benny, our charming host at the bed and breakfast in Bruges, who invited us into his own dining room for breakfast on Saturday and Sunday, and whose infectious humor and good nature are highlights from our visit to this quaint, charming city in Belgium.  

The two German gentlemen in Baden Baden who tried so desperately to redirect us from the orthopedic clinic “ zoom, zoom, zoom” down the hill to our hotel.

The kind lady in Baden Baden who immediately came over and told us we needed to “re-ascend on the elevator,” after seeing three confused musketeers step out of the parking garage elevator with their luggage into the basement fruit market.

The little beggar man in the wheelchair at the Strasbourg train station, to whom Diane and Tom gave change and two croissants; and when we passed him later, he patted the pocket with the croissants then patted his heart and pointed to us. 

Franchesca (the just-too-sweet and too-cute desk assistant in our hotel in Lugano, Switzerland), who waved goodbye to us when we left and said, “Oka-ya, we see-ah  you-ah the next-ah time-ah you-ah come-ah to Lugano, yes?” 

All of those considerate people in the Netherlands, Germany, France, Switzerland and Germany who excuse themselves at the ring of their cell phones and exit the restaurant to speak.

The Italians who don’t leave when their cell phone rings, but who are so full of life that you have to excuse them.  They are kind in a “not so quiet” but “big hearted” way.  For them, it’s about good food, good wine, good company, big hugs and living every day to the fullest. 

The Italian waiter in Florence who talked Tom into a large gelato sundae with chocolate syrup, amaretto cherries and whipped cream after Tom had just finished a plate of ravioli, then said to Tom when he dropped off the check, “You feela mucha betta now, eh?”

The always warm and friendly people in Dublin, Ireland who never let our cups run dry in the hotel pub, and who were okay with a tip “every now and then . . . not all the time.”

As our adventure comes to an end, along with a lot of good times, and having met a lot of fun and interesting people, we also reflect on the more serious side of our visits to the Anne Frank house and Ten Boom.  When walking into these homes, it is like walking back in time, and one must wonder--would I have been brave enough to hide a Jewish family, knowing that the penalty for hiding them was almost certain death.  Or, as a Jew in hiding, would I have been strong enough to endure the confines, the smells, the bad food, reading the same books over and over, and never feeling the sunshine on my face.   Or, as a friend of a Jew, would I have been brave enough to throw packets of food over the fence to my starving former school mate?

We have visited some of the most beautiful chateaux and castles ever built.   Again, you must consider if you were a king, a queen or a lord, would you have been kind to your subjects, or would you have dedicated yourself to accumulating wealth and power?  As Tom reflects on this, he notes that for 38 years he was lord of the numbers at Northwestern Mutual five days a week, but on weekends, he was very similar to a serf with a “honey-do list.”  However, even on weekends life was good, since unlike the serfs during the medieval era, he had access to Makita and DeWalt power tools.  

There is a slower pace to the steps you take in the heart of Europe.  Sure, you can speed up if you feel you need to see everything; but if you can, sit on a bench on the green, watch the young lovers and listen to the bells ring out from the churches and city bell towers.  Ride the trains and allow some room for dogs to sleep near your feet.  Don’t be surprised if your hotel room is rather tight. . . just roll with it, since you will most likely not spend much time there.   Walk in the rain and share an umbrella with someone you love.  Have a gelato every afternoon like the locals before you sit down for an 8:00 dinner.  Enjoy a glass or two of wine every day from your host country and appreciate how many kind and friendly people there are in the world. This is to feel the rhythm and soul of Europe. 

We hope you have enjoyed our recollections of the high points of our trip.  It now becomes necessary to return to Milwaukee and take care of obligations, so we will be returning the first weekend of November and we look forward to seeing our friends and relatives.  Europe will always have a place in our hearts, but it lives right there alongside the friendships we have cultivated over the years and deeply cherish.  See you soon!

Signing off at the end of the trail,

TNT

Florence and the beauty of Tuscany

We departed Lugano for Florence, Italy on Friday, October 26.  Note:  If a person blocks the door to your train car and grabs your bag, and they are wearing grey sweatpants and a hoodie, they are not on the railway payroll.  These little helpers are looking for a handout after they help you with your luggage.  However,  they are not unpleasant if you do not give them anything.   Also, if a young girl finds a gold wedding band right in front of you, says "oh look, it's real gold . . . "you keep it for good luck" --- get ready --- because in about 5 seconds she is going to turn back around and ask you for a handout.   Again, they are not unpleasant if you don't give them anything, but just something to think about when you are in areas filled with tourists.

 

We arrived in Florence around noon, left our bags at the hotel and headed out to find lunch. We navigated through the souvenir gauntlet along the River Arno, then turned left and navigated through the jewelry gauntlet on the Ponte Vecchio.   Finding a nice little cafe north of the Ponte Vecchio, we ate a wonderful lunch and enjoyed a cappuccino as a finish to a fine meal.   The temperature was in the upper 60's so we just enjoyed a leisurely walk around the various piazzas and wandered into the Basilica of St. Mary of the Flower.  This Duomo was started in 1296 and completed in 1436.  The basilica is a cathedral since it is the home base of an Archbishop.  The exterior is just as beautiful as the interior, with colors of greens and pale pinks.  

 

Saturday it rained nearly all day.  However, it was a warm fall day and the rain did not deter the tourists or the shoppers.  The piazzas were a sea of umbrellas, so everywhere you stepped you needed to negotiate your umbrella into the mix.   Throughout the day, Trudy's recently coiffed hair transformed from the Jane Fonda look to the 1980's Tina Turner rock helmet and finally to the Peter Fonda "Easy Rider" coiffe.   Since there were no mirrors in the piazzas, she enjoyed the day uninhibited.

Sunday was rainy and only in the 50's.  However, we had pre-purchased our tickets for the Uffizzi museum.  Therefore, we were able to spend a really enjoyable day viewing the sculptures and paintings of the masters.   Pictures were not allowed, so nothing to share.

On Monday we went to the train station to pre-purchase our tickets to Zurich.  Returning to the hotel we accidentally stumbled across the Laurentian Library which was designed by Michaelangelo and which contains over 11,ooo volumes of ancient script owned by the Medici family.  This was a pleasant surprise and the exhibits were very informative.  

 

Here are just a few more pictures of a beautiful city where you will see incredible works of art around every corner.

 

As of Tuesday, we are off to Dublin for our last stop before returning home.  Wherever that is!

 

Happy trails,

TNT

Skunked by Pepe Le Pew in Paris!

After saying au revoir to Diane, I addressed the overdue need for a haircut.   Unfortunately, I had waited until we were in Paris...just blocks off the Champs-Élysées--the most expensive avenue!  But putting my concern aside, I walked into a salon by our hotel and bravely placed myself in the hands of a French madman, a/k/a Pepe.  He asked "Do you want a trim or something a little French? Having a love for adventure, I chose "something a little French."   How was I to know that he was deranged!  You wouldn't think that someone could rotate two brushes faster than the eye can see, but he could.  He windmilled my hair, removing every bit of curl, until I looked like Tina Turner in the 1980's.  Then he swept everything forward until I looked like Jane Fonda in 1970.  Tom said, "Gee. . .you look so. . .so. . .French !" Tom went to the same stylist later that day but just asked for a trim.   (No sense of adventure!)  Sorry, in order to prevent future possible profiling concerns, we are not posting these pictures!

We decided to return to Baden Baden for a few days of slow time and to recover from our experience with Pepe.  We love this charming resort town just in the fringes of the Black Forest in Germany. The weather was beautiful and we had many peaceful canal walks and outside cafe meals.  The thermal baths are a huge draw for this area, but Tom isn't ready for that European experience yet (that is... he is not ready for communal bathing "no mas pantelones.")

Then it was on to Switzerland, our first stop would be Bern.  This is a pretty city with beautiful architecture, whimsical fountains lining main streets, a south view of the Alps, rolling hills in every direction and the brown bear park which is probably the city's biggest attraction.  As we approached the park, the cages opened and the bears each sprinted to their favorite spot on the hill where they immediately laid down and didn't move for the next hour! 

 

The natural beauty of Switzerland is hard to beat and we really enjoyed our time here.  One of our best memories was our walk through the fall leaves on the path leading high above Bern to the Rose Garden.  

As we headed south, our next stop was Lugano, Switzerland.  This is a stunning area, tucked in a bay on Lake Lugano in the Ticino region of Switzerland.  Because of its proximity to Italy, the main language spoken here is Italian. The Mediterranean flair is everywhere, from the tree-lined promenade walk along the lake to the very upscale shopping in the huge pedestrian area.  The gardens and parks are impeccably maintained and you can see the sense of pride locals have here.  We took a lake cruise, enjoying the incredible views of the mountains on a sunny day. The weather was gorgeous for walking this beautiful city and it was very hard to leave this comfortable location.  Here is a look at this lovely city.

 

 This next picture is of Switzerland's most famous Renaissance fresco.  It covers the whole wall of the nave in the Madonna degli Angioli church which was originally part of a Franciscan monastery.  Quite impressive!

 And we are back on the train to Florence, Italy!

Happy trails,

TNT

Hello Paris . . . au revoir Diane!

We returned the rental BMW to Avis on Sunday, Oct. 14, at the Versailles railway station.  It was raining pretty steady, and there were only a few parking spots and no Avis signs.  So Trudy went in search of help.  After a short wait, she emerged with a young French assistant who looked a little upset that he had to come out in the rain.   He walked over to a spot that said “A _ _S” and moved two orange parking cones so that it spelled AVIS.   As Tom said… “Sodbuster…we didn’t sign up to play “fill in the blanks” in the rain.”  C’est la vie, we unloaded the car and took the next train to Paris.  

When we arrived in Paris, it was chilly and still raining.  We checked into our hotel and then took a cab to the Louvre.   For those who may not be familiar with the history of the Louvre, this was Louis XIV’s crib until he built Versailles, at which time he allowed the Louvre to be used as a museum.  (Remember Chateau Chambord?   Many of the valuable pieces of art from the Louvre were stored at Chambord during WWII for safekeeping.)  This picture was taken the next day when it had stopped raining.

 

While we had been to the Louvre before, Diane had not.   Accordingly, Diane was able to take full advantage of our vast knowledge of the Louvre as we led her through one wrong gallery after another in search of the Mona Lisa.   Diane snapped a pretty good picture of Mona considering she had to wedge herself between about 1,000 other amateur photographers. 

  

Because the Louvre was a palace before it was a museum, some of the apartments have been maintained as they were when it was a palace…and oh my…what apartments!   These rooms were meant to stun and amaze those who came to visit Napoleon III during the mid 1800’s.  Here are some shots of the apartment interiors--unfortunately they are a little dark (no flash allowed!).

After being lost in the Middle Eastern History section for a while, we stumbled into the Greek gallery and found Venus de Milo.  If the farmer who dug her up on the island of Melos in 1820 knew how much she would be worth in 2012, he would have kept digging until he found her arms.  Even without arms, she is a truly beautiful piece of art which seems to transport the viewer back in time.  

We spent a fair amount of time in the gallery containing the massive marbles of horse and riders (once located outside as the entrance to gardens) and larger-than-life sized gods, goddesses and warriors.  Here are just a few samples of what we enjoyed. 

And the next one is what I called "the Bloomington Four fulfilling Tom's wish to see Mackinac Island one more time."

 

Since the Louvre is closed on Monday, we reached critical mass at about 5:00 PM.  Diane had to decide whether to 1) see the Egyptian wing and view an extraordinary collection of art from one of history’s most enduring civilizations, or 2) shop in the Louvre Galleria.  Well...Diane is going home with souvenirs. 

Since the rain had started again, we decided to cab it back to the hotel.  We were unbelievably lucky to get a cab in the rain outside of the Louvre.   Our driver used this opportunity to complete a trial run for the upcoming Grand Prix by cutting in and out of traffic and totally ignoring any posted speed limit.  A terrified Trudy asked “Do you always drive like this?”  He replied “I’m a very good driver.”  (Remember the movie Rain Man?  He was “a savant who was a very good driver.”)  As he squeezed between cars at breakneck speed, Trudy asked if this was safe.   He replied “I drive with my mind…not my eyes.”   He did deliver us to the hotel for $23 Euro.  As a retired accountant, Tom found this interesting since our ride earlier that day from the hotel to the Louvre cost $12 Euro.  Oh well, how often does one have the opportunity to be launched through Paris traffic from the Louvre to your hotel by a savant cab driver.

 On Monday, the sun came out and it was a glorious day to be in Paris walking through the autumn leaves and smelling the crisp fall air as we headed for the Eiffel Tower.  The tower can be viewed from several locations around the city since it is 1,050 feet tall.  Diane enjoyed seeing this historic landmark for the first time.  We considered waiting in line to join the 7,100,000 people who ascend the tower each year.   However, after seeing how many were waiting that day, and knowing  this was Diane’s last day in Paris, we decided not to raise the tally to 7,100,003. Here's Diane's creative shot.

 We then took a cruise on the River Seine, getting off at Notre Dame, one of the amazing cathedrals of the world started in 1163 . . .

 then we saw the Arc de Triomphe (control yourself Lee!) . . .

Then we walked through the Tuileries (the gardens) leading from the Louvre down the Champs-Elysees.  Diane and Trudy admired the beautiful clothing, shoes and purses.  Tom thought the prices were sinful . . . but the shoes were so beautiful!

We had our farewell meal with Diane at a small café near the hotel where we enjoyed talking to a young professor from New Jersey who had brought his mother to Paris for the first time.  The next morning we walked in the rain to the Arc De Triomphe where Diane caught her shuttle to the airport.  Au revoir Diane!  It has been fun!

Tom and I had two more days in Paris so we were off to see the Musee d'Orsay.  Our last day would prove to be a haute-coiffure experience.  Stay tuned!

 Happy trails,

TNT

Chenonceau and Versailles

After visiting the chateau of Chambord, we moved on to Amboise where we checked into our beautiful French Manor for two nights.  We were off the next morning to see the chateau of Chenonceau. . .in the rain!  Here's a picture of our lodging in Amboise.

 

Although Chenonceau began as a castle in the 1400’s, it wasn’t until the mid 1500’s when King Henry II gave the chateau to his mistress that it became the unique bit of architecture that it is today.  She added the arched bridge across the River Cher to its opposite bank as well as the beautiful gardens surrounding the chateau.  [It’s bad enough that these kings were so naughty, but some of them let everyone know how naughty they were by giving their mistresses really nice houses to live in.]  Chenonceau changed hands several times over the years, but was known as the “ladies chateau” since the owners were typically the mistresses or queens of kings.  The portion of the chateau that crosses the river was used as a wartime hospital during WW I and over 2,000 wounded soldiers were treated there from 1916 to 1918.  Some of the wounded fished from the windows of the arched bridge to pass time. 

 

The best way to share the beauty of Chenonceau and the gardens is with pictures, so here you go…enjoy.

We arrived around noon on Friday in Versailles.  It took a few tries to squeeze through the streets to our hotel, and even a tighter squeeze to get into the parking garage.  After dropping off our bags, we headed for the Palace of Versailles which was right across the street.  Visiting Chambord and Chenonceau is a good way to prepare for the unbelievable sight of Versailles.   One look at Versailles, with its rooms that housed 10,000 aristocrats and servants, and you understand why Louis  XVI and Marie Antoinette lost their heads.  The sheer size and amount of gold leaf ornamentation is staggering.  However, the beauty of the architecture and art work contained in and outside of the palace is exceptional.  And the gardens, filled with sculptures and fountains of every size, stretch as far as the eye can see.   Luckily, we caught a good sunny afternoon to visit the extensive gardens. 

In addition to the palace of Versailles, we visited the Grand Trianon, which is a small palace in the back of  Versailles built by Louis  XIV to allow him to flee the stiff court etiquette and spend time with his mistress (how naughty can you get….keeping your mistress in the back yard).   The day we visited the palace, it was pouring rain and in the mid 50’s.  While we thoroughly enjoyed the palace tour, it was about a 20 minute walk from the palace to the Grand Trianon.  The walk was wet, cold and windy.  We stopped off for a hot lunch and a cappuccino at a crowded restaurant near the center of the gardens.  It felt so good to be dry and warm for an hour.  Then it was off to the Grand Trianon.   This small palace was beautiful in its own right, and was completely furnished in décor and furniture of the period. 

We also had tickets for Marie Antoinette’s hamlet, which was a little farm village she had built in the back of Versailles where she and her lady friends could pretend to live in the French countryside (this was when she still had a head).  While we were searching for Marie’s hamlet, the sun came out.  This really helped to lift our spirits and dry our soggy clothes.   It took a few tries down various dirt paths in order to locate the hamlet within the huge Versailles estate.  However, it was worth the effort.  The village was just “too cute.”  Here are snapshots of Marie’s farm village.  By the way, farmers lived in these little houses and grew vegetables that were used by the cooks in the palace of Versailles.

 Our next post will be our last two days with Diane in Paris.

Happy trails,

TNT